Silver City to Doc Campbell’s.

Days 8 to 9.

Mile 161 to Gila River Alt. Mile 40.

After Silver City, CDT hikers face a choice. They can continue on the CDT main route, or, take the popular Gila River Alt. The Gila River Alt is an especially long alternate route, spanning over 100 miles before it rejoins the CDT. The resupply location of Doc Campbell’s is found along the Gila River Alt. Between Silver City and Doc Campbells, hikers taking this alt make their way down into the canyon of the Gila, then begin following the river upstream, making frequent crossings back and forth through the water.

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Day 8

Despite sleeping in the crowded free campground for Trail Days, I slept great. I suspect that the sounds of civilization actually have a soothing effect on me.

After sleeping late, I got up just in time for free pancakes – a part of the Trail Days celebration. The celebrations and pancakes were held today in Gough Park. I got a ride to the park with a friendly stranger, who was shuttling a car full of hikers from the free campground.

At the park, there were approximately 30 to 40 tents from various organizations and businesses. There was also a trailer serving up free pancakes, sausage, eggs, and coffee. I got in line and chatted with the other thru-hikers and locals in line while I waited.

After pancakes, I milled around and caught up with the handful of thru-hikers whom I’ve met so far on my trip. I also visited a few of the tents for different businesses. Many were doing giveaways – which is very exciting for us thru-hikers. We love free stuff.

As I walked around, I spotted a strange piece of trash on the ground in the park – it appeared to be a fake golden doughnut made of foam. Odd.

I wandered past the Gossamer Gear tent. Gossamer Gear made the pack I used on the Pacific Crest Trail last year: the Fast Kumo. I loved this pack so much, but sadly I wore holes in it doing slot canyons last October. I’ve been missing my Fast Kumo recently, since my other pack which I brought on this trail, my ULA Circuit, has been chaffing annoyingly and bruising the base of my spine when loaded up with water.

As I passed the Gossamer Gear tent, the guy working there made an announcement: “There is a golden doughnut hidden somewhere in this park. Whoever finds it and brings it back wins a free backpack!”

I couldn’t believe my luck – I knew where the golden doughnut was! I hurried back to the spot. The doughnut was still there.

I was overjoyed as I redeemed my golden doughnut for a brand new Fast Kumo pack. Just the day before I’d been talking to my mom on the phone about how I missed my old pack. Today it truly felt like the trail provided what I needed!

I hurried to the post office to mail my other pack home. After that, I made another lap around the festival, before heading back to the free campground.

Trail days go on for another day, but I started feeling antsy to hike with my new pack. That and the weather was just perfect for walking: 70 degrees, breezy, and partially cloudy.

I headed out of town on the Walnut Creek Alternate, which connects up with the Gila River Alternate. I am very excited about the Gila River Alternate, as I’ve heard it is a unique and beautiful place. Plus there is a hot spring there.

On the walk out of town, I walked and talked with another thru-hiker named Dog Bait. He got his trail name due to a close encounter with a pack of coyotes. The miles flew by with someone to talk to. Soon, the road turned to trail and I ascended into some very pretty hills covered in strange round, blobby rocks.

I found a campsite with a great view and enjoyed a dinner of cold-soaked ramen, pepperoni, and crushed Fritos while I watched the sunset.

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Day 9

Today was a big day! This morning, I got up and continued hiking on the Gila River Alternate Route. But I wasn’t on the river yet. The first part of this alt was up in the mountains around the Gila. This afternoon, I’d drop down to the river and begin following it through the canyon.

In the mid-morning, I ran into a retired couple thru-hiking the trail whom I’d previously met in Lordsburg. In Lordsburg, they’d commented on how breathable and comfy my hiking dress looked. Now, they were both proudly sporting brand new matching hiking skirts and kilts. Proof I’m succeeding on my mission of popularizing hiking dresses/skirts  – one hiker at a time.

Soon, I descended towards the Gila River on steep switchbacks. This took longer than I’d expected. I was so tired and hungry when I reached the river that I plopped down in the first bit of shade I found and tore into my food bag. I ate every piece of food that wasn’t specifically designated for another meal. I think my hiker hunger has begun.

I spent the afternoon exploring the Gila River. The trail follows the Gila River through a canyon heading upstream. This canyon is a stark contrast to the desert I recently crossed. Down here, there are large deciduous trees and soft riparian grasses. Cool breezes and the songs of birds and frogs drift down the canyon. It is a gentle and welcoming sort of place. So unlike other canyons I’ve visited in Utah, which can be as harsh and unearthly as they are magnificent.

While walking, I entertained myself by playing a very boring game I call “count how many times I ford the Gila River”. Today it was 55 times.

However, all those crossings didn’t slow me down much. The trail in the canyon was so flat and easy that I managed to cover 29 miles today. My favorite distance and longest day yet on the CDT!

I planned to camp at a free campground, located where the trail joins a paved road that runs parallel to the river. I climbed out of the canyon and onto the paved road around dusk. As I entered the campground, I saw a sign that said “Trail Magic Straight Ahead!”.

A huge group of hikers stood around in one of the sites enjoying hot dogs and quesadillas, courtesy of the trail angels. Trail Angels who, as it turns out, I already know! Some of them, I met while hiking the PCT last year – Mock, Gucci, Geode, and Critter. They’d been inspired by all the trail magic they received last year on the PCT to go out and do some trail magic for this year’s CDTers. It was great to see them and to share a hot meal.

I camped at the trail magic. A fantastic end to a great day. I fell asleep to the sounds of an owl hooting nearby.

Tomorrow morning, I’ll continue a mile down the road to Doc Campbell’s Post – my next resupply.

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